Installing slate floors is roughly the same as installing a tile system that is uniformly set or pressed. Most of the underlying issues remain the same, and the only exception is the weight issue. As a natural product, some slabs are actually heavy and can only be properly mined with a certain thickness for shipment and handling. In addition, many slabs need thickness only because of the actual extraction process itself, which is presented from the rock. For example, an attempt to extract the slate in a paper thin slate may not work due to the strength and tensile stress of the rock itself. The underlying layer required for some heavier slabs may mean a thicker plywood base, if it is indeed on the surface of the wood. Obviously, there is no change in cement. Normally, your 1 1/4 \"base will be retained, but it is wise to check the local code and even the engineering specifications for the weight of the material obtained online. So, alas, there are some math problems. Weight is not only a key consideration for the floor and the tile itself, but also a key consideration for the pillar structural elements that support the floor itself. It is entirely possible for you to put your heart on the Brazilian slate floor, which means partially rebuilding the structural foundation of the kitchen! But it\'s not that bad. Even if it\'s easy to do So don\'t be afraid. Once we have solved the underlying problem, a standard trick is to spread the slate into the most similar pattern to your goal. Most floor patterns are available at the center of the tile or at your own supplier of this slate. You can definitely play mode and even choose something random in the end. Obviously, a method of cutting the slate to fit your pattern is required, usually including an electric wet tile saw with a diamond blade or a grinding blade device placed on a skill saw. Grinding the blade creates a lot of dust, so keep this in mind and take the necessary safety measures. With the functionality of this project, you can cut the slate tiles safely to fit any pattern you may choose. Add: Many slate tiles are in a pre-cut style and have a clear pattern described for their use. In this case, the only cut should be to install the final tile to the corners and edges. When the pattern is confirmed, we start the task of laying these tiles to a more permanent place. The slate will adhere permanently to the cement floor- Mix based on \"thinset. This powder contains Portland cement, Super Fine grain of silica sand and special powder acrylic resin commonly used in color and durability. Once the thin sleeve is mixed with the water, it is made into a sticky mortar that tenaciously grabs anything it touches. The best feature of Thinset is that once dry it doesn\'t bend, so you can get the benefits of cement. Once all the tiles are fixed in a thin sleeve I usually have it dry 36- Apply grouting filler between cracks 48 hours before. At this stage, it is a good idea to consider applying the sealer to the top of the tile. This actually applies to grouting- Release the liquid or, better yet, a special type of wet- Look at the seals on the slate. These products will make the grouting easier because the grouting will be trapped in the rough texture of the slate. These liquids may take up to 24 hours to fully solidify before you start grouting. The final stage is the grouting itself. More professional beating machines gather as little water as possible in cracks. The reason is that water can sit there and weaken the structure of cement. A good cement cake batter was used and spread out, then wiped with a heavy sponge to remove all unwanted cement marks. A clean, finished tile floor will make you very proud.